Men's Civil War Era Garment Patterns

                                                                                             

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More fashions suitable for the Civil War era can be found on the Colonial page.

 

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Basic Shell Jacket         1837 - 1890   

from Tailor's Guide

   This basic pattern is a waist-length fitted jacket with cuffs and a waistband. Instructions are given for making nine major variations - both Union and Confederate - with body style and decorative changes. A pattern insert discusses historical differences.

HDG10……..$12.00

                                                                                                    

 

 

1830's Frock Coat  1838 - 1865        

from Tailor's Guide

Revised for either single or double-breasted for military officers, Union or Confederate. Sizes range 40-46 chest.

 

The single-breasted frock coat fits the body snugly; fitted sleeves, adorned with buttons, taper to the wrist. The skirt wraps from open front panels to a fashionable split back with decorative inserts. A contrasting lapel is optional.

HDG07……..$12.00

                                                                                                    

 

 

 

 

Button-Fly Trousers 1850 - 1900

from Tailor's Guide
These trousers are historically accurate, for 'roomy' fit, and will require braces or suspenders. An optional waistband is included for those that may want a more tailored appearance.

HDG15…….$12.00

                                                                                                    

 

 

 

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Front                                Back

California Pants 

from Laughing Moon Mercantile

Mid to late 19th Century - 1850 to 1900.   Men's sizes 28-60 and Women's sizes 4-26 all in same package.  Whether you are doing Wild West - Gold and Silver Rushes - Pioneers - Civil War Civilians - Ladies' Reform Dress - Cowboy and Cowgirl - or Victorian this pattern is what you need.  This pants pattern is made from an actual salesman's sample dated after 1853.  The buckle for the back cinch comes with the pattern and extras are available.

LAF-106..........$16.00

                                                                                                    

 

 

 

Union Issue Trousers Waist Sizes 32 - 38 by Past Patterns Les Jensen, Curator of The Old Guard Museum in Ft. Myer, Virginia says, "The Federal Issue Trowsers pattern put  together by Past Patterns is the first that has been based on solid research, both in archival records and using original garments. I only wish this kind of thing had been available when we were starting out."  The pattern includes extensive historical notes. Multisized 32-38 P710................$20.00

 

Big and Tall 40-52 

P 713........$20.00

     

 

Military Issue Shirt

by Period Impressions

This simple, easy and fast to make shirt was  government issue to the troops.  Neck sizes 14, 15 1/2, 16, 17 1/2 included in one packet

IM 750............. $14.00

                

 

Mounted Services Jacket

by Period Impressions

Shell jacket for Union Cavalry, Artillery and Mounted Rifles.  Men's 34/36/38,  40/42/44, or 46/48/50

IM719S.................$16.00

 

                           IM719M.................$16.00

     

IM719L................$16.00

 

 

 

Cavalry Pants

by Period Impressions

These Cavalry pants have reinforced inseams and seat for long wear in the saddle.  Men's 28/30/32, 34/36/38, 40/42/44, 46/48/50

IM774S......................$16.00

 

IM774M......................$16.00

 

IM774L......................$16.00

  

 

 

 

 

1860s Male Evening Suit

from Old World Enterprises

A suit featuring a fitted frock coat with lapels that extend out sharply toward the shoulders.  It is form-fitting with a fully-lined vest that is cut high with a rounded collar.  The tails move into a double pleat at the center back.  The trousers are of moderate width in cut.  Some knowledge of tailoring is recommended.  The shirt has a back yoke with front gathering at the shoulders.  The sleeves are of medium width.  The high collar folds into sharp points at the immediate front.

OW861M (Suit only).....$16.95

  

OW861MS (shirt only) .....$9.95

  

OW861MC (both shirt and suit) ...$23.95 

  

 

 

 

 

1860 Male Cape

A three-quarter length cape with a stand-up collar, this design features a triangular section that is set onto the top with the point of the triangle falling to the center back.  The front is closed with oversized frogs.

OW860MA.........$11.95

 

  

 

Classic Plain-Cut Summer Trousers of the Mid-19th Century

from Past Patterns

The pattern is a multi-sized regular in waist 28-42. In 45" wide fabric, waist sizes 28-34 require 2-3/4 Yds.; waist sizes 36-42 require 2-7/8 Yds.

In the Construction Notes Past Patterns introduces you to 19th century measuring, let-out seams, middle-line and the location of the 19th century man's natural waistline. In the Marking and Making-Up section Past Patterns discusses tailor's supplies and thread marks. In the Hand Stitches Past Patterns illustrates the stitches used to sew the original trousers, make buttonholes and sew buttons with a neck.

P014.......$16.00

 

  

 

Classic Plain-Cut Summer Trousers 

from Past Patterns

The pattern is a multi-sized regular in waist 44-52. In 45" wide fabric, waist sizes 44-50 require 3-1/8 Yds.; waist size 52 require 3-1/4 Yds.

In the Construction Notes Past Patterns introduces you to 19th century measuring, let-out seams, middle-line and the location of the 19th century man's natural waistline. In the Marking and Making-Up section Past Patterns discusses tailor's supplies and thread marks. In the Hand Stitches Past Patterns illustrates the stitches used to sew the original trousers, make buttonholes and sew buttons with a neck.

P015.......$18.00

 

  

 

Men's Sack Suit Jacket   

from Period Impressions 

Early through late Victorian

A civilian sack suit jacket, a must for the common man, farmer or shopkeeper impression. This pattern requires a muslin first to adjust armscye in larger sizes. Men's sizes S(34, 36, 38), M (40, 42, 44), L(46, 48, 50).


IM701-S........$16.00  

  

 
IM701-M........$16.00  

 

  IM701-L........$16.00  

  

 

 

1858 Early Victorian Frockcoat   

from Period Impressions 

Fully lined civilian frock coat with one inside breast pocket and side pockets. Men's sizes S (34, 36, 38),  M (40, 42, 44), L (46, 48, 50).

IM702-S........$16.00
 

  

 IM702-M........$16.00  

  

 IM702-L........$16.00  

 

 

 

1860s Double-breasted Frockcoat  

from Period Impressions 

 

 Fully lined double-breasted coat. Men's sizes S (34, 36, 38),  M(40, 42, 44), L(46, 48, 50).

IM703-S.............$16.00

 

 

 IM703-M............$16.00  

 

  IM703-L.............$16.00

 

 

 

 

 

Enlisted Man's Frockcoat   

from Period Impressions 

Suitable for Union and Confederate infantry and artillery units. Men's sizes S (34, 36, 38), M (40, 42, 44), L (46, 48, 50).

IM710-S............$16.00 

 

IM710-M............$16.00 

 

IM710-L............$16.00 

 

 

 

Jr. Officer's Frockcoat   

from Period Impressions 

Single breasted coat for company officers. Skirt pockets. Men's sizes S (34, 36, 38), M (40, 42, 44), L (46, 48, 50).

IM711-S......$16.00 

 

M711-M......$16.00 

 

M711-L......$16.00 

 

 

 

Sr. Officer's Frockcoat   

from Period Impressions 

Senior officer's frock coat for Union or Confederate army, double-breasted with inside left pocket and cuff options. Men's sizes S (34, 36, 38),  M(40, 42, 44), L (46, 48, 50)  XLG (52, 54, 56).

IM712-S.........$16.00
 

 

IM712-M.........$16.00 

 

IM712-L.........$16.00 

 

M712-XL.........$16.00 

 

 

 

Zouave jacket & vest  

from Period Impressions 

Throat closure on this French influenced jacket. Vest included. Men's sizes sm (34, 36, 38), med (40, 42, 44), lg (46, 48, 50).

IM713-S.........$16.00 

 

IM713-M.........$16.00 

 

IM713-L.........$16.00 

 

 

 

Zouave pants, sash and gaiters

Algerian-influenced trousers used by Zouave units. Sash and gaiters included.    S, M, L.

IM773-S……..$16.00

 

IM773-M……..$16.00

 

IM773-L……..$16.00

 

 

 

 

Shell jacket   

from Period Impressions 

Made like the frockcoat without the skirt.  This Jacket is 

suitable for a plethora of Union and Confederate units. Men's sizes S (34, 36, 38), M (40, 42, 44), L (46, 48, 50), XL (52, 54, 56).

IM714-S........$16.00 

 

IM714-M........$16.00 

 

IM714-L........$16.00 

 

IM714-XL........$16.00 

 

 

 

Officer's shell jacket   

from Period Impressions 

Suitable for senior officers. Men's sizes S (34, 36, 38), M (40, 42, 44),L (46, 48, 50).

IM715-S............$16.00
 

 

IM715-M............$16.00 

 

IM715-L............$16.00 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Union sack coat   

from Period Impressions 

Basic army-issue coat with roll collar and kidney pocket on the left front. Men's sizes S (34, 36, 38), M (40, 42, 44), L (46, 48, 50).

IM716-S............$16.00

 

IM716-M...........$16.00

 

IM716-L............$16.00

 

 

 

 

 

 

Confederate Regimental Coat  

from Period Impressions 

Basic issue army coat. Men's sizes S (34, 36, 38), M (40, 42, 44), L (46, 48, 50).

IM717-S............$16.00

 

IM717-M...........$16.00

 

IM717-L............$16.00

 

 

 

Men's Greatcoat   

from Period Impressions 

Caped greatcoat. Due to the large number of layers to sew at the neckline, this pattern may be difficult for domestic machines to handle. Sized for men and boys. Men's sizes S (34, 36, 38), M (40, 42, 44), L (46, 48, 50), XL(52, 54, 56)

IM718S........$16.00

 

IM718-M........$16.00

 

IM718L........$16.00

 

IM718XL........$16.00

 


 

   

Mounted services jacket  

from Period Impressions 

Suitable for Union Cavalry, Artillery and Mounted Rifles. A difficult pattern to sew. Men's sizes S (34, 36, 38), M (40, 42, 44), L (46, 48, 50).

IM719-S............$16.00

 

IM719-M............$16.00

 

IM719-L............$16.00

 


   

Military/Civilian Vest

from Period Impressions 

Suitable for any impression of the period. Can be adapted to Regency by increasing the depth of the standing collar. Men's sizes S (34, 36, 38), M (40, 42, 44),L (46, 48, 50) XL (52, 54, 56).

IM740-S...........$12.00

 

IM740-M..........$12.00

 

IM740-L...........$12.00

 

IM740-XL...........$12.00

 

 

 

 

 

Vest step or shawl collar    

from Period Impressions 

Two variations of collars for this civilian vest, as well as two front hem variations. Suitable for mid 19th century to Western Expansion. Men's sizes sm (34, 36, 38), med (40, 42, 44), lg (46, 48, 50).

IM741-S.........$14.00

 

IM741-M.........$14.00

 

IM741-L.........$14.00

 



 

 

Military Issue Shirt   

from Period Impressions 

Standard army issue shirt. Multi-sized in two sizings: regular 14 1/2 neck to 17 1/2, and large, 17 1/2 to 19 1/2.

IM750..........$14.00

 



  Three Button Shirt

  from Period Impressions 

Common home-sewn shirt sent to soldiers on the line. Regular: 14 1/2 neck to 17 1/2, and Large 17 1/2 to 19 1/2

IM752.......$14.00

 

 

 

 

Dr. Walker Dress Shirt   

  from Period Impressions 

Named for a surgeon in the Union army. Pattern includes shirt, collar and tie. Multi-sized (14 1/2 neck to 17 1/2).

IM753........$14.00

 


 

   

Bibb Front Shirt

  from Period Impressions 

Style of shirt common to firemen, military men and later with cowboys. Multi-sized (14 1/2 neck to 17 1/2).

IM754..........$14.00

 

 


 

 

 

Band Collar Shirt

  from Period Impressions 

Features band collar, underarm gussets and tail vent gussets. Multi-sized (14 1/2 neck to 17 1/2).

IM755.........$14.00

 

 

Men's Drawers

  from Period Impressions 

Men's undergarments for mid-19th century. Men's sizes sm (34, 36, 38), med (40, 42, 44), lg (46, 48, 50).

IM770-S........$12.00

 

IM770-M........$12.00

 

IM770-L........$12.00

 




 

Men's Collars & Ties

from Period Impressions 

Ties and collars suitable for mid 19th century interpretations. Use with band collar shirts.  Necks sizes 14 1/2 to 18 1/2 inclusive.

IM700………$7.00

 

 

 

 

 

Cavalry pants   

from Period Impressions 

Reinforced inseams and seat for saddle wear. Men's sizes XS (28, 30, 32) S (34, 36, 38), M (40, 42, 44), L(46, 48, 50)

IM774-XS............$16.00

 

IM774-S............$16.00

 

IM774-M............$16.00

 

IM774-L............$16.00

 

 

 

 

Men's Button Fly Pants

from Period Impressions 

 

Button-fly pant with back yoke suitable for military or civilian use. Men's sizes XS (28, 30, 32) S (34, 36, 38), M (40, 42, 44), L (46, 48, 50), XL (52, 54, 56).

IM775-XS...........$16.00

 

IM775-S...........$16.00

 

IM775-M...........$16.00

 

 IM775-L...........$16.00

 

IM775-XL...........$16.00

 

 






 

 

 

Duster

from Period Impressions 

 

Several cape options for this mid to late 19th century duster. Men's sizes sm (34, 36, 38), med (40, 42, 44), lg (46, 48, 50) inclusive.

IM780..........$16.00

 

 

 

 

 

Kepi or Forage Cap

from Period Impressions 

Instructions for both versions included. Sizes 22 to 25 1/2 inclusive

IM810.......$13.00

 

 

 

 

 

Standard Issue/Basic Shirt

Timeless Stitches
This pattern is for the most basic of all men’s shirts.  This pattern can be used for shirts that extend from 1800 - 1900.  The techniques in this pattern can be used to make three distinctly different styles of shirt.  Each of which has separate features, but as many shirts were made at home, the final look of your garment will depend on the choice of fabrics, the economic status you are trying t portray and the planned use of your garment.  I have categorized this pattern according to the three styles, but the necklines and collar options can be mixed and matched according to your individual desires and the planned use of your garment.  The three styles are: A) Military Standard Issue Shirt:  a loose pullover shirt, with a fold-over collar, single button at the keyhole neckline and tapered sleeves. B) The Blockade Shirt:  Based on the thousands of shirts that were provided by England, to the North and South before and during the War.  Called the blockade shirt because many were smuggled through the Federal Blockade. This is a loose pullover shirt with a single button front opening with a narrow facing and a narrow band collar and cuffs. C) The Placket Shirt:  3 – 4 button front placket opening characterizes this pullover shirt, which can have either a fold over or a banded collar.  Most children’s shirts were made using this style.

TSM710…………$14.00

 

 

 

 

 

Men's Bib Front Shirt
   Timeless Stitches

This shirt pattern is for a fitted shirt with an inset bib front, and slightly dropped  shoulders. The pattern includes instructions for creating bibs, from the fancy ruffled of the early 1800’s to the plain and tucked bibs of the1880’s. This pattern, with the minimal adjustments that are included with the pattern, can be used for most of the 1800’s. As most of my patterns are for the Civil War Era (1861-1865), these instructions and this basic pattern builds a shirt for this Era.   Instructions are included to achieve a band collar with which optional detachable collars can be worn.

TSM711…………$12.00

 

 

 

 

 

Men's Tailored Dress Shirt

Timeless Stitches
           This shirt pattern is for a Basic tailored shirt, much like those that a tailor or dressmaker would have custom made for daywear and all but the most formal of occasions. This pattern is for a front opening shirt, with medium width sleeves and a yoke back. The shirt can be gathered, pleated or tucked across the yoke, depending on the Era and style one wants to achieve. This pattern, with the minimal adjustments that are included with the pattern, can be used for most of the1800’s and into the first years of the 1900’s. As most of my patterns are for for the Civil War Era (1861-1865), these instructions and this basic pattern builds a shirt for this Era.   Instructions are included to achieve a band collar with which optional detachable collars can be worn.                       TSM715………….$12.00

 

 

 

 

Military Vest

Timeless Stitches
            Military vests are very popular with the soldiers.  They allow the soldier to wear their sack coat, frock coat or shell jacket open, instead of tightly buttoned.  They also allow the soldier to take off their jacket completely and not offend others, by appearing in their shirtsleeves. Vests also provide an extra layer of clothing in colder weather.   This pattern is for a 9-button military style vest, with a high collar and two welt-style waist pockets, and optional breast pocket in the welt style. The back of the vest is straight across and designed to come even with the waistband of the trousers.  The back is fitted using a belt

TSM730……..$12.00

 

 

 

 

   

Civilian Shawl Collar Vest

Timeless Stitches
         Men would rarely be seen in public, in their shirtsleeves, they usually wore a vest over any shirt.  Much like women’s underpinnings, men’s shirts were considered underwear and it was considered impolite to be seen in just a shirt.  Vests also provided an additional layer of clothing as protection against the cold. This pattern is for a shawl-collared vest that has a mid-level opening.  Depending on the fabric chosen, this style of vest would have been worn from the early 1850’s through the late 70’s and mid 80’s.  The vest has two welt-pockets towards the waist line.  The collar of the vest can be made of the same fabric as the vest front or of a contrasting fabric.  The back of the vest is straight across and designed to come even with the waistband of the trousers.  The back is fitted, using shallow darts and a belt.  If a more utilitarian vest is desired, the pattern can be made up without the collar.    

TSM732……….$12.00

  

 

 

 

Men's Military Trousers

Timeless Stitches
This pattern is for a very basic style of military trousers, worn during the Civil War Era. The trousers are designed to fit using the fit of the period - high waisted with a loose crotch. The pattern includes two pocket variations: a slit pocket in the side seam and a mule-ear style. Two back variations are also available:  the common eyelets on each side of the vent and a buckle and strap closure. A watch pocket is included, although may of the uniform trousers did not have watch pockets. Tips for handling wool are also included

TSM720………..$14.00         Size 34-42 

 

      TSM720P……… ….$14.00  Size 44-52

 

 

 

 

 

Men's Civilian Trousers

Timeless Stitches
    This pattern is for civilian style trousers that could have been worn after about 1840.   It was around this time that the use of a front flap was discontinued in favor of a button fly.  The pattern includes three styles of pocket opening: side (slash) pockets, a mule- ear style and a modified slash pocket.   The pattern includes a choice of hemlines for the front of the trouser; the curved line being designed to curve over the front of the boot and being more tailored than the straight line. Tips for handling wool are also included.

TSM727…………..$14.00 Size 34-42 

 

          TSM727P………..$14.00  Size 44-52

 

 

 

 

Collars & Cuffs for Men
Timeless Stitches

        This pattern is for a selection of 8 collars and 4 cuffs that span most of the 19th Century. A brief description of the different styles and when they are worn is included. 

Collar styles:  
a) Tall standing collar from 1800-1830 – often called “the choker"  b) Narrow standing collar that meets and over laps from 1840’s   c) A fold-over collar with rounded corners—The Dickens
d) A folded corner collar with wings   e) A fold-over collar with square corners   f) A rounded collar   g) The Shakespeare   h) High-band collar                    Cuff styles:     a) Old English   b) Round Cuffs
c) French Cuffs   d) Standard 3” square cuff   

Timeless Stitches Patterns TSM-711 Men’s Bib Front Shirt and TSM-715 Basic Men’s Tailored Shirt, work very well for this idea of an Era spanning shirt. They both include ideas and instructions for shirts that span almost all of the 1800’s, with particular detail on the 1860’s style of shirts. These items can be made as detachables, or they can be cut out and used to replace the cuffs or collars in either of the patterns mentioned above.        SIZING: The collars and cuffs are sized by length

TSM716....$12.00