Men of the Colonial, Revolutionary War and Fur Trade Eras

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Man's Accessories

by Kannik's Korner

Common items used by men of all classes c. 1740 - 1830





1790's Frock Coate' 1837 - 1890

from Tailors Guide
Our double-breasted coate' is short-waisted to show the waistcoat underneath. Cut-away tails are pleated and vented in back. Contrasting fabric is optional for collar and lapels, cuffs, and packet flaps. The frock coate' is worn with our drop-front breeches (or trousers after 1805)







Drop Front Breeches or Trousers 1750 - 1820

from Tailors Guide
The front fall and pocket flaps button to the contoured waistband in front. The waistband has lacing and a gusset in back to ensure a comfortable fit; soft back pleats give seat fullness and easy movement. Breeches have button leg plaquets and fitted bands just below the knee.







Waistcoat 1750 - 1778       

from Tailor's Guide     

The waistcoat features a rounded neckline and it buttons to just below the waist. The front pockets have decorative three-point flaps over the welted openings. The waistcoat's back panels are 4" shorter then the front panels and are vented center back for ease of movement. This pattern complements our drop-front breeches.








Five Shirt Styles          1700 - 1820   

from Tailor's Guide

             Five basic shirt styles in one pattern! All have a dropped shoulder line with full sleeves, underarm gussets, and buttoned cuffs. Four styles, with front openings to mid-chest, offer three collar choices, plain or pleated front panels, and ruffles. The fifth style (Rifle shirt) is a wrap around with fringe down the front opening.               








French Fly Breeches 1690 - 1750

from Tailor's Guide
With the disappearance of the "petticoat breeches" and the "Spanish Breeches", along with the shorter waistcoats and coats about 1690, the "French Fly" came into popularity.






Trade Shirt 1830 - 1860

from Tailor's Guide
A later style, differing from the "Five Shirt" in that it has a narrower collar and a tapered set-in sleeve.







:Napoleonic Era British Foot Soldier's Jacket circa 1806-1820 

This pattern is drafted. That means that it was created using early 19th century pattern drafting systems, the specifications from the British military archives and original issue uniforms. It has the small back and deep set sleeves typical of British military uniforms for the years 1806 to 1820.

The pattern contains templates for placing the looping on the jacket left and right sides, the cuffs, and wings. In addition to construction instructions the Sewing Guide contains instructions for Hand Stitches and How to Create the Five looping shapes. Saundra Ros Altman has written and illustrated the sewing and fitting instructions. James Kochan and Henry Cooke IV edited the text and Looping Shapes section.

This pattern is available in army issue sizes 1 [36], 2 [38], 3 [40], 4[42] and modern sizes 5 [44], 6 [46]. Of 54 inch wool cloth the jacket: Sizes 1 and 2 require 1-2/3 Yds.; 3 requires 1-3/4 Yds., 4 and 5 require 1-7/8 Yds.; 6 requires 2 Yds.

PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE PURCHASING: This pattern is for personal non-commercial use only. Dressmakers and other commercial users contact Past Patterns







1804 U.S. Army Issue Artillery Coat

This shell pattern may be used for military patterns circa 1796-1809. This includes patterns for the Lewis and Clark bicentennial celebrations. The pattern is based on U.S. Army correspondence between 1803-1805 from the National Archives as well as garments and drafting systems.

The pattern contains historical notes by Robert G. Stone describing the 1804 artillery coat as well as how to adapt the pattern for use in making a Lewis and Clark private's coat.

The pattern also contains illustrated instructions for hand stitches that are typical of early 19th century tailoring. Saundra Ros Altman has written and illustrated the sewing and fitting instructions.

This pattern is available in army issue sizes 1 [35], 2 [37] and 3 [39] and modern sizes 4 [41], 5 [43], 6 [45], 7 [47], 8 [49], 9 [50], 10 [52], 11 [54], and 12 [56]. Of 54 inch wool cloth: Sizes 1 through 3 require 2 Yds.; 4 through 6 require 2-1/4 Yds.; 7 and 8 require 2-3/4 Yds.; 9 through 12 require 3-1/8 Yds.

This pattern is copyrighted and is for personal non-commercial use only. Dressmakers and other commercial users contact Past Patterns.






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Stockings, Pockets & Mitts

A full scale, multi-size, pattern for constructed stockings for men or women, with instructions for custom fitting. Can be made of knitted cloth, or of linen cut on the bias (good for 17th, 18th, early 19th century). Five pocket styles, including three mid-18th century (English, Scotch, & Italian), and two second half 18th century from America. Also includes a pattern for women's common linen mitts, cut on the bias (one size). Includes stocking sizes S-M-L-XL-2X-3X




Men's Cape 1600 - 1800

by Tailor's Guide

Two button closure; with single capelet and a collar.  One size fits all.




Man's Outer Breeches or "Slops", KK-4304


Man's Outer Breeches


A protective garment used by sailors (even pirates),   fishermen, farmers and field workers.   Based on original garments and contemporary illustrations. Side pocket slits to reach breeches pockets. View A has optional watch pocket or watch pocket access flap (to reach breeches watch pocket). Center front opening without fly buttons. Laced vent in back of waistband.

Includes waist sizes 32-34-36-38-40-42-44-46-48-50-52





Man's Double-Breasted
Short Jacket


A full size pattern of a general purpose working man's jacket.  Based on contemporary illustrations as well as an in-depth study of original garments, this jacket features a full lining, welted pocket, a  neck edging detail, as well as three sleeve variations.  Worn by farmers, laborers, apprentices, seafarers, sportsmen and others (probably even pirates), this jacket is sure to find a place in your wardrobe!
Suggestions included for altering to fit the "mature" male figure.

Includes sizes 38-40-42-44-46-48-50


Double-Breasted Summer Paletot 

from Past Patterns

The popularity of the paletot in the mid-19th century is without question. Farid Chemoune, author of A History of Men's Fashion, quotes La Fashion which lamented in 1840, "Paletots, yet more paletots, more paletots still! They have become more fashionable for every class, for every hour of the day, for every occasion." The paletot is cut with a separate side-body, which makes it fit the body closely. Because it fits the body closely it replaces a frock coat.    The pattern contains a brief history of the paletot from the 1840's-1870's which describes the difference between a paletot and a frock coat: hand sewing instructions, alterations and sewing instructions in 11 well-illustrated steps.  This Summer Paletot makes up into a plain-cut, straight-front informal coat that is used for everyday summer wear. It is the unlined, starched, and washable variety worn with a starched shirt #007, lightly starched washable summer vest and unlined, lightly starched washable summer trousers #014 or #015. Also consider wearing drawers #006.   Comes in three Chest Sizes: Sizes 34"-38", Sizes 40"- 46", and Sizes 48"- 54".

The Fabric Requirements are for a man who stands 5'6" tall. Add 2"-4" for every 1" of height above 5'6". Sizes 34"-38" require 4-7/8 Yds., sizes 40"-44" require 5-1/3 Yds., sizes 48"-54" require 6 Yds. of 45" wide fabric.







Two Mid-Nineteenth Century Shirts

from Past Patterns

The square cut, drop-shouldered style with underarm gussets is the most common style of the first half of the 19th century.    The suggested fabrics are: Cotton sheeting for the body and a fine linen for the collars, cuffs and plaited fronts. You may also make the entire shirt of a cotton calico and the detachable collar out of a cotton or linen.    The two shirt styles are contained in one pattern package and are multi-sized 34 through 50 chest.  Chest sizes 34-40 require 3 Yds. of 45 inch wide fabric; chest sizes 42-50 require 3-7/8 Yds. of 45 inch wide fabric.





1830s-1840s Small-Fall Trowsers

from Past Patterns

The man with the hat is wearing a work or dress trowser that closes with a small fall and has frog pockets. The young man is wearing pleated work trowsers. Cossacks, drafted from the 1837 The Tailor's Masterpiece can also be made with this pattern.

The original fabrics were blue jean and fine brown wool broadcloth. Blue jean was a very popular fabric in the early to mid-nineteenth century. It is a twill weave with a cotton warp and wool filler. 

The pattern is multi-sized waist 28-42. Waist sizes 28-34 require 2-3/8 Yds. of 45 inch wide fabric; waist sizes 36-42 require 2-3/4 Yds. of 45 inch wide fabric.






Knitting Patterns

for above the knee stockings, mittens and shooter’s mittens, gloves and fingerless gloves, voyageur caps and liberty caps (3 variations), wool tassel, socks and mittens.





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 Shirt and Accessories by La Fleur de L:yse

French Canadian Company patterns printed in both French and English

French style man's shirt with two styles of sleeves, Front and cuff ruffles, French neck stock in four versions, work cap, cravat and neckerchief and historical notes about fabrics, colours, trims, accessories and the way to wear them. Sizes Small (chest 38), Medium (chest 40), Large (chest 42) and XLarge (chest 44) all in same package.






Gentlemen's Banyon

 by Rocking Horse Farm

Gentlemen's 18th Century informal, at-home wear.  The banyon was worn over shirt, waistcoat and  breeches. All sizes, Small thru King included. (Chest 24-52)                  





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Men's Military or Civilian Coat

Pattern Circa 1776

   This coat pattern may be used for formal wear by  constructing it from  velvets and brocades or informally of cotton, linen or wool..  The military  version  has variations of the sleeve, cuff, pocket flap, lapel and collar.  Colors can be chosen from the historic records of your particular military unit. Sizes 34-48 included.           





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Men and Boy's Breeches 

Circa 1776 

  Authentic Colonial breeches for  both men and boys included in one  pattern packet.  Also includes  conversion information to create  "overalls" for the  frontiersman.  Boys' sizes 22-27  (6-14) included  Men's' sizes 28-44 included 

PW 5.................Discontinued




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Men's and Boys' 1776 Shirt

Pattern sized men's 34-48 and boys' 8-20 in one packet.



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Men's and Boys' 1776 Waistcoat


Pattern sized men's 34-48 and boys' 8-20 in one packet.





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Man's Shirt
First Quarter of the 19th Century
English Style

A full size shirt pattern, based on original 1808 cutting directions, with construction techniques from various original shirts. Directions for bosom ruffles included.  Includes sizes XS-S-M-L-XL-2X-3X.





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Man's Shirt
Second Half of the 18th Century
English Style

A full size shirt pattern, based on original eighteenth century cutting instructions, with construction techniques from various original shirts. Includes directions for bosom and sleeve ruffles.  Includes sizes XS-S-M-L-XL-2X-3X.





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Eight Traditional Capotes by  Northwest Traders

These tailored cut styles are representative of the French and Indian War through the Fur Trade Era.  Eight double-breasted styles in one pattern.  Full sizes 32-54 Styles are Trapper, Old Tailor, Nor'Wester, Meti's, Caped, Longhunter, Voyageur or Duffell. 3 1/2 & 4 PT Blankets 





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Classic Capote

Northwest Traders 

Three single-breasted early Colonial tailored styles. No hoods-cape and collar only.  full sizes 32-54.  Styles are Frontiersman, Canoe Jacket, and Frontier Scout.  Button Front. Pattern 





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Northwest Traders Mackinaw Coat  

This early double-breasted coat has a double upper body layer, as well as pockets and flaps designed for very cold weather. Sizes32-54 included Pattern

NW142.......... $10.00




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Northwest Traders Fringed Capote

Fancy Capote with Fringed shoulders and hood edge.  Done in the square cut style of the Plains Indians.  Sizes S, M, L, and XL included. Pattern

 NW101 ........... $10.00




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Northwest Traders Three-in-One

Gun case, mittens and pouch.  Pouch may be one compartment or double.  Gun case may be extended in length.  Mittens are on piece. Pattern

NW105 ..........$9.00




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Northwest Traders Blanket Shirt  

Simple, partially tailored style for comfort.  sizes S, M, L, or XL included.  Pattern may be extended for larger sizes. 






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Northwest Traders Trader's Pants

 Early popular French fly front. Pattern can be used with leather or cloth. Shows variations for different leg fringe styles.  Waist sizes 26-48 included.

  NW16.............. $10.00




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Northwest Traders Trousers 

Trousers button to the side on a double-buttoned waistband.  With botton side pocket, straight legs, fringed side seam option. Pattern 





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Northwest Traders War Shirt

This pattern can be used for a war shirt or Indian leather dress.  Typical square cut style.  sizes S,M, L, XL and XXL included.



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Northwest Traders Frontier Shirt

 Popular general tailored style of the Colonial and Fur Trade Era.  Laced thong V-neck style with cuffs and collar.  S, M, L, and XL included. Pattern 






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Northwest Traders Waistcoat Vest  

Military cut, Colonial style, tailored with pockets and flaps.  Sizes S, M, L, and XL included.

NW107 ........... $12.00



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Northwest Traders Leggings & Breechcloth

Breechcloth has a tailored crotch for comfort. Leggings are one piece in S, M, L, and XL. Can be made with leather, canvas or cloth.

NW104 ......... $9.00




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Smoke and Fire Scottish Kilts

How to pleat and wear a great kilt and how to sew a wee kilt.  




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Smoke and Fire Men's Hats and Caps

Instructions for Fatigue Cap, Scots Bonnet, Liberty Cap. Directions for trimming tri-corns and making cockades.





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Smoke and Fire Gillie Brogues

Instructions and patterns for 17-18th Century gillies.  Sizes 7-11 included in pattern.

SF3........... $6.00





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Smoke and Fire Revolutionary War Vest 

(known also as a waistcoat)

Sleeved and unsleeved versions A pattern found in latter half of 18th century.         sizes 36-48





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Smoke and Fire Revolutionary War Regimental Coat

Sizes 36-48

SF6 ..............$15.00




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Smoke and Fire Military Overalls  

Revolutionary War overalls. Includes sizes 30-38 Instructions for proper fit.





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Broadfall Pants

by Buckaroo Bobbins

Sizes 30-54 in each package




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Missouri River Boatman's Shirt

by Folkwear

This loosely fitted knee-length shirt was worn by raftsmen and fur traders on the Missouri, Mississippi, and Ohio Rivers in the mid-19th Century.

It is frequently depicted in the paintings of George Caleb Bingham.






Missouri River Drop Sleeve Shirt

Sizes S- XL in same package




18th Century Waistcoats

by Rocking Horse Farm

Two Styles, French and Indian and Revolutionary War. 1760-1780

Sizes M-L-XL in same package







18th Century Button Fly Breeches

by Rocking Horse Farm

A style of knee breeches worn from early 18th century until the 1770s  Sizes 34-40






Blanket Shirt

Rocking Horse Farm

Make from heavy wool for those chilly days.  Sizes S-M, M-L, XL-K









Workman's Jacket / Stable Jacket

This single-breasted jacket can be made up into an 18th Century workman's jacket, a 19 century stable jacket or a short tailed civilian jacket.  Sizes SMLXL in same package.






Poet Shirt / Blouse

Poet or Pirate Shirt. Sized for both men and women Sizes S M L XL Q K





18th Century, Seven Years War, La Nouvelle France

French Soldiers Small Clothes

Excellent pattern suitable for both military and civilian interpretations. The pattern includes military cap, breeches, waistcoat and underpants. Multi-sized included. These patterns have been developed in partnership with Association d'histoire vivante Québec-Canada and part of the profits will go to the development of the group's future projects. François Gousse provided the military information found in original sources.






18th century, Seven Years War, La Nouvelle France

French Soldier's Surtout Coat and Canadian Hooded Coat

Also known as the Canadian Hooded Coat, or capote, the pattern includes the coat, and hooded coat with large cuffs in two lengths. Multi-sized inclusive. These patterns have been developed in partnership with Association d'histoire vivante Québec-Canada and part of the profits will go to the development of the group's future projects. François Gousse provided the military information found in original sources





French fly breeches 1730-1770   

from Period Impressions

A French style of closure for 18th century breeches. Sizes S (34-38) M (40-44)           L(46-50).











18th Century Breeches   

from Period Impressions

Dropfall breeches common to the 18th century man. Sizes S (28-32) M (34-38)             L (40-44).








1770 Civilian Coat  

from Period Impressions

Basically a sleeved waistcoat, the sleeve is of two piece construction. Common to the latter half of the 18th century. Suitable for middle to lower class attire. Sizes S (34-38) M (40-44) L (46-50).








18th c Waistcoat  

from Period Impressions

The male version of a shortgown, the waistcoat is to be worn over the shirt. This particular style is common to the American Revolution, or the latter half of the century. Sizes sm (34-38) med (40-44) lg (46-50).









1770s Dress coat   

from Period Impressions

Also known as the frock, the coat is to be worn over a waistcoat for more formal wear and warmth. Depending on detailing and fabric, suitable for common to aristocratic historical interpretations. Sizes sm (34-38) med (40-44) lg (46-50).








1812 Officer's Coatee

from Period Impressions

Suitable for War of 1812 and Napoleonic interpretations. Sizes sm (34-38) med (40-44) lg (46-50).   Copied from an original worn by Jarvis Jackson held by the Arsenal in Frankfort, KY









1840s Double Breasted Frock Coat

from Period Impressions

Men's civilian double-breasted frockcoat dated 1843. Men's sizes S (34, 36, 38), M (40, 42, 44),  L(46, 48, 50).







Man's Workshirt   

from Period Impressions

18th century

Typical T and gusset style of shirt construction used for centuries. This version has the traditional lack of shoulder seam, with an added shoulder reinforcement or epaulet, and is considered underwear in the period. Sizes 35-50 inclusive.





1700s to 1800s Top Hat

Late 1700s to early 1800s.



Native American Footwear

by YaTaHai

Book- Buckskin Basics and Workbook

by SparrowHawk

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This book teaches the rudiments of cutting and sewing buckskin garments, as well as giving guidelines for identifying and caring for various leathers.   Good reference for the following moccasin patterns.



Yaqui Moc  (Pattern)

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A comfortable slip-on moc in two basic styles with sturdy exterior soles.  Style A - Knee high with a fringed tab in front and long fringe down the side.  Cuff is cut from natural edge of hide.  Style B - 10" top with the same cuff as A, with a shorter fringe on the side and a front tab left solid with natural edge.    .

Sizes 5-6-7



Sizes 8-9-10



Sioux Moc Pattern

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A totally traditional moc patterned after museum photos and displays.   Combined with a variety of leggin styles, to suit all possibilities, it is a low top moc with an inset welted sole.

Size 5-6-7



Sizes 8-9-10



Zuni Moc Pattern

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A high or medium height moc, this "Princess Boot" is very flattering to the foot with many possibilities for decoration.    Style A - Knee high top with fringe overlaid with cuff cut from natural edge of hide.  Style B - 8" top with fringed cuff only (and inseam bead trim)  Style C - 8" top with natural cuff only.   Cuff design can be applied to either moc.    All three styles in one packet.

Size 5-6-7



Size 8-9-10



Shawnee Moc Pattern

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A very handsome and popular knee high moc.  Four styles with heavy-wear exterior soles in slip on styling.  Looser chimney is comfortable alone or over jeans.  Attractive addition to fringed buckskin dresses or western wear.

Small (5-6-7)



Medium (8-9-10)



Shoshone Moc Pattern

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A simple moc but with a wide range of decoration possibilities.   This moc has an 8" top and is a pull-on with a drawstring top and an inset/welted sole.

Size Small (5-6-7)



Size Medium (8-9-10)



Comanche Moc Pattern

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A Plains traditional in three styles, inspired by museum photos and exhibits.  Excellent with leggings.

Size Small  (5-6-7)



Size Medium (8-9-10) 



Keltoi Moc Pattern

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These mocs have a European History, a very soft boot, in five styles.   Lace up fronts fit close to the leg and hug the foot.

Size small (5-6-7)



Size Medium (8-9-10)